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Gold Swoons for the Madness of BistroLQ

For his review this week Jonathan Gold visited Bistro LQ, Laurent Quenioux' offal-centric French bistro on Beverly. Judging by his liberal use of sexual metaphors (even by Gold standards), the cuisine was a hit.

But the review was not all raves and that's precisely why he loved it so much: "Like Matthew Barney, or perhaps Frank Gehry, Quenioux always seems to be knocking against the limits of his medium, perpetually flirting with the possibility of failure.... A colleague confesses that Bistro LQ has been responsible for both the best meal and the worst meal she’s eaten all year, and it is just this wobbly groove, the impression of an artist working at the edge of his abilities, that makes his cooking so exciting."

His Goldness recommends the trio of foie gras ("sautéed, poached and layered with quince marshmallow into a surprisingly delicious version of the sweet pastry marjolaine"), seared scallops ("Brilliant"), and the Scottish hare ("tar-black and reeking of autumn...the dish is spectacular") along with its "short, obscure but exquisite" wine list.

"Erotic practices illegal in several Midwestern states" and more right this way. [LAW]

Ask Mr. Gold: Cafe Agra
First Bite: Peel's "Point" [LAW]

Bistro LQ

8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA