This week's review of newbie Eva restaurant has Virbs smitten over the Sunday prix fixe, and (most) everything in between. Thus, she awards Mark Gold's first solo venture 2.5 stars. And, it's a winner right off the bat. Not only does the $35 Sunday menu include vino, "it's not just plonk either, but bottles that grab your interest." Check. Next comes quite the comparison: "On Sundays everything is served family-style, which makes Eva's supper something of a cross between Lucques' long-running event and the nightly fare at Thomas Keller's casual Ad Hoc in Napa Valley." Another score, and it doesn't stop there. As much as SIV is all about the Sunday meal, she is equally as pleased with food and service all other days:
Any night of the week, the place is fun and relaxed. And, though Gold cooks exceedingly delicious food, he's not given to taking himself too seriously. He also has something very rare, a generosity of spirit that translates onto the plate.
For Eva's dose of missteps, the short list includes "dull poached beef...gummy pumpkin ravioli," and the verdict is still out on the clams with udon noodles. Overall quite the glowing review, Mark Gold is "clearly a skilled executive chef. Whether or not he's at the stoves, dishes are executed with the skill of a first-class kitchen." [LAT]
The Elsewhere: The Find hits up Flaming Clam Grill in Ktown, Sinosoul does Korean bbq at Beul Dae Po, LAmag checks out Marche, Caroline on Crack also dines at Eva, The Foodinista lunches at Thyme, and the OCR tries tapas at Boqueria.