Sherry Miss Irene stops by Drago Centro, Celestino Drago's ambitious downtown concept. The bright side is that, despite an inconvenient location, the menu is already firing on all cylinders ("eminently worth the effort"), but unfortunately, The SIV points out that the town has not yet taken notice:
This is a seriously good restaurant that exudes urban chic. It's got views, a glamorous setting, a private dining room with a demonstration kitchen in a former bank vault and, most important, the best Italian cooking in the area, and some of the best anywhere in L.A. But where are the crowds?In the end, even though she worries about the crowds and gets confused about the parking situation, Miss Irene loves the rest of the Drago show, from the $7 million design to the "savvy" wine list: "everything about Drago Centro spells top-notch." Final grade: a tidy 2.5 stars. [LAT]
ON THE BLOGS & ELSEWHERE: HeSaid Mag takes an early look at Tonys, LAist finds a greasy spoon in Van Nuys by the name of Nat's Early Bite Coffee Shop, Serious Eats goes gaga about the Kogi Truck, My Last Bite is at Animal, Dig Lounge does brunch at Comme Ca, and last but not least, the secondary review in today's food section takes a look at Bon Marche Bistro in Monterey Park.