This week, Jonathan Gold takes his traveling circus to Bamboodles, Kenny Chen's new Cantonese noodle joint in the San Gabriel Valley: "There are a lot of good noodles in this neighborhood, and while Bamboodles’ are up there with the best, they may not be quite life-changing, the bounce, the wheatiness — especially of the noodles served cold — are actually a bit less profound than they tend to be in good northern noodles hand-thrown in the more conventional way." [LAW]
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