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Week in Reviews

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2009_02_provecho.jpgJ. Gold shares some positive thoughts from his first bites at Provecho, which, lo and behold, actually resembles a modern Mexican restaurant. Along those same lines, Gold seems encouraged by the background of its chef: "... ex–Republic chef Gabriel Morales is a local guy who just happens to have a decade of classical training, and I suspect his taste memories of al pastor were formed at bootleg carts on the Eastside ... Which means that his tacos may be stuffed with duck confit or rillettes instead of beef head or pork stomach, but they are tacos to the core. [LAW]