Week in Reviews

Today, Jonathan Gold files his longer review on Koreatown porridge, and takes an early look at Umami Burger, where he enjoys trying to decipher the signature item: "Umami Burger’s Umami Burger is a pure expression of the umami universe, a frieze of six tastes stacked onto a very nice patty of custom-ground flap meat, the beefy cut that is the basis of the best carne asada. And like the Sunday double acrostic, the Umami Burger is a puzzle demanding to be solved ... You could always ask, but I suspect that would take away all the fun." [LAW]