Citing "the most glamorous urban view in the city" as his backdrop, Jonathan Gold files a glowing piece today from Drago Centro, and even though the downtown destination isn't perfect, the superlatives don't stop there: "Centro may be the grandest new restaurant in this neighborhood since the early 1980s ... Drago Centro is the newest generation of this sort of luxurious dining, a Perino’s for 2010 and beyond." [LAW]
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