Jonathan Gold gets topical, as the big fella tours Highland Park's Antojitos Chilangos and Metro Balderas for Mexico City's pork specialties (do you see what he did there?). A sampling of the meatastic verbosity, which is rare form today: "Like duck confit, carnitas is both meat and a cipher of meat, only more so. Stripped of the necessities of both portability and preservation, the pork is allowed to reduce like consomme into purest essence of flesh." [LAW]
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