Week in Reviews: Flor del Rio

Not surprisingly, it's back to the dives this week for Jonathan Gold as he visits Boyle Heights' Flor del Rio. Todays lesson? How to start the morning off right with Zacatecas-style young roasted goat, an apparent hangover cure. And what a breakfast it makes. The animal is "stewed and simmered until it is...transformed, a soft, gelatinous sigh drawn from the carcass of a tough-minded billy, an étude in the keys of chile, strong meat and clove." Don't forget, there is no menu at Flor del Rio, so good luck. However, "you can ask for your birria dry, or moistened with the intense goat broth called consomé, or submerged beneath a bowl of soup," and specify from where on the animal you would like your meat sourced. And, to soak up that broth expect some of the "better tortillas in town." [LAW]