Week In Reviews

According to Jonathan Gold, the "it" dish of the moment is pescado Zarandeado aka snook fish, and is apparently quite hard to find in the US. In LA the fish is brought in weekly from Mexico at Mariscos La Chente on the Westside, where they serve it "butterflied, lathered with oil, garlic and spices, fixed into a kind of wire basket, and placed over a hot fire." Once cooked, the fish is served alongside "hot tortillas, limes and an umami-rich marmalade of onions," resulting in what Gold describes as a " bone-intensive but sublime" meal. Other greatest hits include the "wonderful" cocktails of shrimp and fresh octopus, and the "shrimp cucaracha, fried with appendages and head intact." [LAW]