Week in Reviews

This week Jonathan Gold takes a stab at Feng Mao, "the barbecue joint... where northeastern Chinese cooks prepare the Beijing version of Xinxiang barbecue for a Korean-speaking clientele." Gold deems the K-town spot maybe "the oddest restaurant in Koreatown" because of some unique menu items such as fake dog, grilled chicken hearts, intestine, and "what must be the winciest dish in town", bull penis. But the true standout is the mutton kebabs; "lozenges of rich meat interspersed with tiny cubes of lamb fat that turn crisp and lubricate the meat as it cooks." Though a similar "barbecue restaurant in Rosemead, may have more exquisitely marinated mutton and crunchier chicken wings," Gold admits, "the beer adds a lot." [LAW]