Lazy Ox Canteen: "Vigorous, Imaginative, Not-Quite-Polished"

Bloggers around town have praised Josef Centeno's newly opened downtown bistro, Lazy Ox Canteen, and today The Goldster joins the chorus with his two cents: "Other chefs could probably spin four or five restaurants from the controlled chaos of Lazy Ox — a new-wave cantina, a modern bistro, a Japanese-influenced pub, a tapas bar — and occasionally it seems as if Centeno should edit his menu a bit more tightly...In a meal with seven or eight shared tastes, there will probably be one you won't like. Still, Centeno's vigorous, imaginative and not-quite-polished cooking is the sort of thing you want to dive into: Flavors from a dozen food cultures ramming into and across and through each other...Lazy Ox is fun with a big group of people — the ewww factor can be a bit overwhelming: Charred octopus with lima beans or steamed whelks will never be as popular as cheeseburgers." [LAW]