Bludso's: The "Proper Amount of Meat is Way, Way Too Much"

For today's second round of reviews, Jonathan Gold gets sticky fingers at Bludso's BBQ in Compton. Aside from the dryish pulled pork, Bludso's can do no wrong: "...the barbecued beef brisket at Bludso's can be as good as barbecue gets an impressionist painting of meat, a damp vapor you inhale so fast and so unconsciously that you barely remember you were eating meat at all...the meat and the juice and the ribbons of fat slide down your throat like liquid, each slice generating the desire for the next, until the container is empty and you feel a bit like an anaconda that has unwisely decided to engulf a pangolin....thick hunks of cow, cooked long and slow, oozing sweet grease, ringed with a deep, ruddy stain where the smoke from the pit have penetrated deep into the muscle. There is sauce, sweet and peppery, thick as engine oil, but Bludso's brisket needs no sauce." [LAW]