Jonathan Gold Talks Dough at Beijing Pie House

Today The Goldster discusses dough, specifically xian bing, discs of dough stuffed with ground meat, the signature dish served at Beijing Pie House: "But we know why we're here. And as promised, xian bing are hot when you pick them up, finger-scorchingly hot, like a potato snatched straight from the embers, and the texture, although you sense a faint crackliness, is thin, warm and pliable, like skin. The menu warns you that it's hot, and the waitress warns you that it's hot, and the woman at the next table warns you, too, but there is probably nothing that can prepare you for the act of biting into a too-hot xian bing, when a jet of pressurized soup, as volatile as the steam from Old Faithful, arcs over your shoulder and drips harmlessly down the plate glass behind you." [LAW]

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