Jonathan Gold Visit Sotto, A Non-Pizzeria

Off to Sotto The Goldster goes and right off the bat he wants you to know that "Sotto is not really a pizzeria." Pizzas are "actually quite decent," but not surprisingly JG is a bigger fan of the protein preparations: "The menu is powered by reasonably priced sharing plates, and incorporates both local produce and sustainable, artisanally produced meats: braised lamb neck with olives! Buckwheat pasta with pig's head sauce and beet greens! Grilled Wagyu beef tongue with potatoes and salsa verde...Sotto is a different kind of Italian restaurant, a shrine to the awesome heat of its oven, a place where the hot, fresh bread can come with pureed lardo instead of olive oil if you like it that way...Samson and Pollack may be pizzaioli in public, but they really seem to be abattoir jocks instead." [LAW]

The Elsewhere: e*star LA tries Larry's, Eat: LA talks Vegan Glory, kevinEats at Bistronomics Lucky 13, OCR checks out Basilico’s Pasta e Vino, Quarry Girl revisits Doomie's, Refined Palate hits Chinois, and Sinosoul picks Be Be (2).