Jonathan Gold Hits Le Comptoir at Tiara Cafe

Jonathan Gold decides to drop by Le Comptoir, chef Gary Menes' downtown pop-up at Tiara Cafe:

You pull up a stool to the counter. You are handed handwritten menus — a formality, because you will be served what the kitchen has prepared — and within a few seconds a glass of white Bordeaux is put down in front of you, then a plate of compressed melon, almost the texture of tuna sashimi, served like a ceviche with lime juice, a little olive oil and a spray of cilantro. The bread is sliced from big, blackened rustic loaves, a bit wet on the inside, which Menes has made using a starter he has nurtured for years. So far, so good.

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