Jonathan Gold decides to drop by Le Comptoir, chef Gary Menes' downtown pop-up at Tiara Cafe:
You pull up a stool to the counter. You are handed handwritten menus — a formality, because you will be served what the kitchen has prepared — and within a few seconds a glass of white Bordeaux is put down in front of you, then a plate of compressed melon, almost the texture of tuna sashimi, served like a ceviche with lime juice, a little olive oil and a spray of cilantro. The bread is sliced from big, blackened rustic loaves, a bit wet on the inside, which Menes has made using a starter he has nurtured for years. So far, so good.Gold shares, really, no complaints. There's some experimental cookery going on, and Menes even goes so far as to make his own cheese spiked with truffles. [LAW]
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