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Jonathan Gold Says The Tsukemen at Tsujita LA is "Life-Changingly Good"

The Goldster loves his noodles, and today he dishes on those served at new Sawtelle addition Tsujita LA. While he enjoys the pricey evening omakase, it's ramen that he is after, both the traditional kind and the hipper tsukemen, "a Tokyo-born dish of bare, cooled noodles, served with a superconcentrated dipping sauce of reduced, fish-scented pork broth." He even uses the phrase "life-changingly good" to describe the latter.

But the revelation at Tsujita, what separates it from every other Japanese restaurant in town, is the lunchtime ramen — specify hard-cooked — that float in soup made from chicken, fish and long-boiled kurobuta bones. The gossamer noodles act more as texture than as substance; they add little weight to the broth. Or better yet, get the tsukemen: thicker, burlier, more slippery noodles, pure chew, with the tensile strength of hand-pulled Lanzhou mian; with syrup-dense dipping sauce porkier than pork itself.
LA's noodlerati have taken note, expect long lines. [LAW]

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Tsujita LA

2057 Sawtelle Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90025

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