Well, it's not exactly a traditional review, per se, but today Jonathan Gold bids farewell to Angeli Caffe, Evan Kleiman 27-year-old central Italian trattoria on Melrose. He talks about the restaurant's "quiet consistency" and reminisces over the "regional Thursday-night feasts, Slow Food dinners and street-food nights." In the end he concedes, "There are few people who could be said to be the face of food in Los Angeles. Kleiman is certainly one of them." [LAW]
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