Now that Spago has reopened in Beverly Hills The New York Times takes a look back on the success of proprietor and chef Wolfgang Puck only to declare, "with his relentless merchandising, self-branding and kitchen globe-trotting, with his ease in moving from the highbrow to the lower-brow, Mr. Puck has often seemed in danger of sliding into culinary parody ... If Mr. Puck was once the David Chang of his day, today he is not quite a cutting-edge figure in the Los Angeles food world." [NYT]
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