clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

Filed under:

Jonathan Gold Reviews Superba Snack Bar in Venice

New, 12 comments

Jonathan Gold check in at Paul Hibler and chef Jason Neroni's popular new Venice addition, Superba Snack Back. Gold is intrigued by the "abstract Italian" menu, especially the pastas:

Neroni's style is what you might call abstracted Italian, which is to say that it incorporates tastes and textures associated with Italian cooking without actually duplicating an Italian dish.
If the restaurant has a specialty, it is probably the pastas. They are handmade, slightly stiff and leaning toward excess — twisted casarecce with chanterelles, Parmesan and a dusting of the dried fish roe bottarga; the floppy hand-folded penne called garganelli with shell beans and shreds of pheasant; and agnolotti, like oblong ravioli, with crab and the last of the season's corn ... His whole-wheat rigatoni is more or less in the style of cacio e pepe, cooked extremely al dente and tossed with cheese and a punishing handful of black pepper — it doesn't quite taste like anything you'd get in Rome. It tastes like Venice Beach.
Not many complaints at all. Though dishes might sound complicated, they are, in fact, straightforward.

[Photo: Elizabeth Daniels]

The Elsewhere: Serious Eats files thinkage on Marcona, e*star LA considers Mess Hall, Gastronomy visits Proof Bakery, kevinEats at The Fat Cow, LA Foodie hits Masa of Echo Park, Mattatouille talks about NongLA, Midtown Lunch recommends Khan Shabu Shabu, and The Unemployed Eater visits California Chicken Cafe.

Superba Snack Bar

533 Rose Avenue, Venice, CA 90291 310-399-6400 Visit Website

Superba Snack Bar

533 Rose Ave., Venice, CA