Chef Craig Thornton's once-secret, sometime pop-up supper club, Wolvesmouth, been described as "epic," "better than Alinea," and "the hardest reservation in the city." When New Yorker staff writer Dana Goodyear profiled Thornton for this week's issue, she revealed a lot: Thornton doesn't want to be the Axl Rose of cooking, though he is usually dressed in black and grows his hair long; lived through a truly troubling childhood; used to live on government issued food (by necessity, not choice); sometimes forgets to eat; has had his supper club shut down by the authorities more than once; and, most exciting for his fans, is about to open a real restaurant.
At the beginning of September, Thornton found a place where he could re-create Wolvesmouth, undiluted but legitimate: open kitchen, communal seating for twenty-four, with room for a takeout counter. It was in a failing Korean barbecue joint in a Little Tokyo shopping center, a few blocks from his apartment. He pledged all his savings, and found the perfect financial partners ... He plans to offer one seating a night, with eight to ten courses for a set price of a hundred and ten dollars, and to sell tickets in advance. Opening might be as soon as January.