This past Monday, General Manager Francesco Greco, in a crisp suit, was directing traffic at his new charge, Doma, on Camden in downtown Beverly Hills. The space that used to house La Focacceria has been completely redone. Greco was one moment directing a photographer and the next, seating guests. There were waiters to train, bartenders to supervise, and deliveries to attend to. He was understandably harried. It was opening day.
Doma is vaguely reminiscent of a modern museum restaurant, with stark white walls and striking floral arrangements. Mostly what gives this impression, though, is the art. Decorating the walls are beautifully framed photographs of what appear at first glance to be cocktail dresses; they are actually carefully manipulated vegetables and fruits, swooping and swirling to fit a form.
Executive Chef Dustin Trani is aiming to mimic that grace on his menu. There are basics like Arancini, calamari, and pizza, but also an olive oil poached heirloom tomato with whipped burrata and bacon and a ricotta and mascarpone stuffed agnolotti with veal butter sauce. Doma may not be as sophisticated as, say, e.baldi, but it may just persuade those at Villa Blanca to try something new. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Doma offers valet parking, a full bar and private dining.
· Switcheroos [~ELA~]