This week SIV awards two stars to Papilles, Santos Uy's tiny French restaurant which she compares to "one of those irreverent Paris bistros you find in the 11th or the 13th arrondissements." Sher is quite taken with the "polished and sophisticated" cooking especially at the fixed menu price of $34 for three courses. The word "wonky" comes in to play when describing Papilles' tables and chairs, and she explains that "this is not the place for aficionados of the late l'Orangerie or Ortolan. But anybody with a sense of adventure will love this bistro's spirit...it's an L.A. version of the same kind of crowd you'd find at similar Paris bistros — diners in their 20s and 30s who like to eat well but enjoy a more casual atmosphere and a check that's easier on the wallet."
Wine is "interesting and unusual," but Sher finds the list slightly overpriced. She wishes the restaurant allowed BYO, and describes the wine glasses as "clunky."
The Elsewhere: Caroline on Crack tries the pancake lasagna at Roof on Wilshire, Eat: LA hits Ray's and Stark Bar, Gastronomy visits Tar & Roses, kevinEats at Cliff's Edge, Midtown Lunch picks Shaka Shack, and Refined Palate revisits Vin Bar.