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Jonathan Gold on the Indefinite Line Between LA's High and Low Cuisine

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On Saturday, former LA Weekly restaurant critic turned LA Times food writer Jonathan Gold scribed his opening article for the dwindling paper. Is this the explanation we were looking for as to why the Times no longer allocates stars to restaurant reviews? Titled Los Angeles' reflection in a plate, the piece delves into the blurred line between this city's high and low cuisine. Gold writes, "...it is impossible to understand food in Los Angeles without bringing into play underground restaurants and pop-ups, trucks and tables, and chefs whose engagements sometimes feel closer to club gigs than they do to real restaurants...Los Angeles cuisine has matured into an allusive, ever-shifting mosaic, where a chef can go from refined French bistro cooking to tapas to global degustation to brunch and then to bistro cooking again; or from high-end California cuisine to bar burgers to modernist Asian dishes; or from haute cuisine to pizza to Malaysian satay without compromising either his or her food or vision."
·Los Angeles' reflection in a plate [LAT]

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