SIV Reviews Post & Beam; Gold on Cooks County

Sher has nothing negative to say about Baldwin Hills newcomer Post & Beam, the seasonally driven, California-style eatery from chef Govind Armstrong and restaurateur Brad Johnson:

Come on a weeknight or weekend, the place has a happy, energetic buzz. Pizzas slide, smoking, from the oven. Chicken sizzles in a cast-iron skillet. Fresh lettuce leaves from South Central Farmers Collective arrive slicked with good oil. This is real food, California in spirit with a sassy Southern accent.

Waiters aren't shy about offering suggestions, but it's done in such a natural and friendly way it reinforces Post & Beam's mission to be a neighborhood clubhouse of sorts. Each main course comes with a choice of two "small plates," including velvety long-cooked greens with smoked ham hock, creamy mashed potatoes and black-eyed peas with house-smoked bacon, to name just a few.

The wine list offers some "good" bottles and the Braeburn apple crisp is a great way to finish a meal. For the neighborhood, Post & Beam "stands out on all counts — a dedicated chef and solid farm-to-table cooking, sharp front of the house and warmly welcoming setting." Estimated star rating: Two and a half stars. [LAT]

Jonathan Gold goes out on a limb claiming that Cooks County, a venture from "chef Daniel Mattern and pastry chef Roxana Jullapat, may seem more of the moment than a place like Ink, which is engaged in the restless mutation that modernism needs to survive." He says that "It's not a particular dish you fall in love with at Cooks County — it's a sensibility." Also, "Jullapat is one of the most accomplished young pastry chefs in Los Angeles at the moment" so don't miss dessert. [LAT]

The Elsewhere: CoC tries the cocktails at Post & Beam, Dig Lounge discusses Black Hogg, Eat: LA picks simplethings, Eating LA visits Mexicali Taco & Co., Food GPS brunches at Baco Mercat, Gastronomy samples Inari Sushi, kevinEats at Night + Market, and Midtown Lunch talks about Robata-Ya.

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Cooks County

8009 Beverly Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 653-8009