John Mariani, the very likeable Esquire restaurant critic who definitely didn't steal a menu from Alinea, today writes a defense of French food (but against whom?). He explains, "Those who dismiss French restaurants remind me of Yogi Berra's saying of a restaurant, 'Nobody goes there anymore. It's too crowded.'" Also: "The best restaurants in Las Vegas are on a par with the best in Paris." [Esquire via -EN-]
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