Yesterday, SIV's most recent restaurant review for Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air went live, though oddly enough the article is date-stamped March 10. In any event, no stars were allocated, though as expected, Sher pretty much has a cow over the remodeled, reconceptualized, "quintessentially Californian" restaurant.
And what a difference: For the first time in recent memory, the historic hotel has a serious restaurant with some seriously good food. Puck may no longer be the youngest kid on the block, but he's tough and smart and, more important, he knows how to make food that is genuinely delicious.
Part of Puck's genius is his instinctual feel for what people in Southern California want to eat. And his food here via executive chef Sonny Sweetman and chef de cuisine Ray Weber relies on top-flight ingredients and deft execution...Puck doesn't take any shortcuts. Everything is done in-house, including the excellent breads — ficelles, focaccia, miniature pretzel braids and more.And the one-liners continue. "Seafood dishes are strong too." "I've never had a better Dover sole." "I'm thrilled one night to find roast guinea fowl on the menu." SIV complains about a chilly dining room, an "overly fussy" steak tartare, and a Goat-cheese encrusted lamb (however she adds, "the lamb itself is superb"), but for the most part it's cupcakes and lollipops for SIV at Wolfgang Puck's newest establishment. Estimated star rating: Three stars. [LAT]
[Photo: Elizabeth Daniels]
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