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Week in Reviews

2012_4_rocios.jpgJonathan Gold raves about the mole at Rocio's: "You are at Rocio's, no doubt, not for cactus but for mole, the rich, complex sauce made from dozens of pounded spices, chiles and nuts, among other things, including a bit of chocolate. L.A.'s best mole may be a subject for debate, and the conflict between regional styles will never be resolved. Nonetheless, there is no doubt that chef Rocio Camacho makes a greater variety of moles than anyone else — not just the seven traditional moles of Oaxaca, or moles from Puebla or the Distrito Federal, but also versions based on almonds or hibiscus blossoms, tamarind or coffee, tequila or pistachio nuts — unorthodox moles she has carried with her from restaurant to restaurant like a Johnny Appleseed of the metate." [LAT]

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