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Jonathan Gold Reviews Tar & Roses in Santa Monica

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Jonathan Gold is pleased with chef Andrew Kirschner's Tar & Roses, an unpretentious new small plate spot with a serious focus on food and wine:

The conceit of Tar & Roses is that almost everything passes through the big wood-burning oven...Most of the dishes are inflected by smoke...If I had to pick the single most delicious thing in the restaurant, it would probably be the English peas, drizzled with oil, sprinkled with sea salt and roasted until the tough pods collapse into sweetness and the peas inside become smoky little sugar bombs, like edamame as re-imagined in CinemaScope by David Lean.
Second to the peas The Goldster loves both the roasted parsnips and the bone marrow, meanwhile the "shellfish pot" is also a good choice. For dessert, perhaps a strawberry tart with honeycomb ice cream. [LAT]

The Elsewhere: Daily Dish checks in to Tar & Roses, Eat: LA visits CaCao Mexicatessen, Gastronomy hits Milo & Olive, kevinEats at Cooks County, and Refined Palate also tries Tar & Roses.