Jonathan Gold Shares Thinkage on Sunset's The Pikey

The Goldster files a mixed review on The Pikey, for many years Coach & Horses, Sunset's new English pub by Sean MacPherson:

As at most London gastropubs, the thing here is pub food constructed from the produce of the farmers market rather than purchased by the freezer full; a burrata bruschetta topped with roughly mashed fresh peas, for example, instead of the inevitable mushy peas; or potted chicken livers that come across as a creamy, sweet pâté.

Still, it is easy to oversell this place. The "char-grilled beef burger with bandaged cheddar'' is an over-compacted cheeseburger — not bad, but also not on anyone's top-10 list. The vinegared chicken is as dry and sweet as misguided neighborhood Cantonese. You will probably not be happy with the sliced flatiron steak, which arrives at the table as juiceless as the dry end of a roast beef.

JG enjoys "the Indian touches" and suggests the "unexpectedly good" pappardelle with oxtail ragù and the pan-roasted striped bass which "melts" into sautéed veggies. For dessert, the Blackberry Fool. [LAT]

[Photo: Elizabeth Daniels]

The Elsewhere: e*star LA visits Whist at The Viceroy, Eat: LA drinks at The Juice Fountain, Eating LA hits Casa Bianca, kevinEats at Bouchon, Refined Palate has a last meal at Spago, and The Amateur Gourmet picks BP Oysterette.

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The Pikey

7617 Sunset Boulevard, , CA 90046 (323) 850-5400 Visit Website

The Pikey

7617 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90046