Red Hill is the latest step in the Brooklynization of Echo Park, a modern restaurant to go with the vintage clothing stores and well-frequented boutiques ... Michaud and Rocco are bringing quinoa salad, crunchy roast duck with roast grapes and pickled cherries, and beets with farro to an area better known for pupusas and sopa de siete mares.
The restaurant's energy is bound up in the same kind of contradictions, between wholesome, farmers-market-oriented vegetarian (but not vegan) cooking and gently transgressive dishes with meat; between heirloom carrots in a brown-butter vinaigrette and crisp, fluffy beignets glazed with melting slices of lardo and tossed with pickled mustard seeds that pop between your teeth. Whether you are on Team Kale Salad or Team Venison Meatball, whether you fancy flatbread with eggplant and fontina or roast chicken with dandelion greens, the kitchen is on your side.Goldy finds both hits and misses, but do note, "you could do worse than to look at the bread-and-butter plate ..." [LAT]
[Photo: Elizabeth Daniels]
The Elsewhere: The Amateur Gourmet visits Tasty Noodle House, e*star LA tries Simmzy's in Long Beach, kevinEats at Plate by Plate, Midtown Lunch discusses Gaju Naengmyeon, and The Unemployed Eater hits Lukshon.