... Saline, slightly floral Mermaid Cove oysters from Virginia, the clean, cucumber snap of Kachemaks from Alaska — L&E now has a rotating list of oysters from both coasts, as well as Canada and New Zealand. After that, a house-smoked trout salad with pristine greens, the one-two sweet/sour punch of kumquats and Marcona almonds. And then, a whole branzino, its sweet, white flesh imbued with the fistfuls of rosemary and thyme stuffed inside. It was a meal that was bracingly fresh, simple and well executed.
With friends, sitting on the sidewalk in the early-evening Silver Lake sunshine, I discovered the kitchen's skill with more modern food — small plates such as smoked mussels in a jar of fragrant olive oil. Fish them out of the jar and pile them on top of the toast, which has already been topped with crumbled chorizo. It's like a study in smoky, oily fun.
B-Rod doesn't feel as passionate about the goopy crab salad or the mess of a bourbon pecan pie, though she can't stop commenting on the local feel and friendly vibe. She still thinks, "these flaws are a small price to pay for a neighborhood restaurant that does simple luxury incredibly well... the laid-back nightlife of Silver Lake swirling around you, it's hard not to feel soothed and renewed, and immensely grateful for a neighborhood restaurant done right." [LAW]