Jonathan Gold Reviews Osteria Drago

The Goldster checks in with the new Osteria Drago, deciding that, while the eatery is a step up from prior tenant Il Sole, it's not necessarily pushing the envelope:

Osteria Drago is basically a simpler version of the Santa Monica Drago, fitted into what was until recently Il Sole, which was a fine but slightly cuisine-impaired restaurant known for its veal chop and for its celebrity clientele ... But when Drago took over the restaurant, he upgraded the penne alla vodka to cavatelli with a venison ragù; the Chilean sea bass was jettisoned in favor of grilled ahi with salsa verde and eggplant; and Il Sole's pollo alla Milanese was replaced by roast chicken with fresh artichokes, peas and fava beans.

... but it is a place where the cooking is understated but real — alive ... but the short menu is fresh, cleanly executed, new and not quite regional.

[Photo: Elizabeth Daniels]

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