Week in Reviews

New Time Out LA Restaurant Critic Olive Ashmore considers Spago and isn't quite as keen on the restaurant as others: "An appetizer of 'BBQ' skate wing brushed with a bright, spicy sambal seems like a prelude to greatness, but medallions of beautiful crimson-brown venison fillet languish in a slightly too sweet, though pleasantly spiced, reduction. But, did anyone notice that a napkin was missing or a side of caramelized Brussels sprouts emerged from the kitchen after entrées were already finished? Service isn't perfect—if a bit sloppy—but at a restaurant charging, sometimes, $79 for an entrée, it very well should be." [TO]