Patrick Kuh of LA Magazine files a one-star review of Paiche, Ricardo Zarate's newish eatery by the sea in Marina Del Rey. Kuh starts with a long history of how Zarate has come to where he is know, from the humble stand at Mercado La Paloma to three restaurants in L.A. and another in Santa Barbara. Kuh wonders if Zarate has overreached with his growing restaurant empire. Writes Kuh: "The leg hasn't undergone the requisite flavor-compressing hours curing in kosher salt and herbs before being poached slowly in duck fat. So it's bland." [LA Mag]
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