When prepared correctly, as it is at the Factory Kitchen in the arts district east of downtown (and also at chiSpacca on Melrose), focaccia di Recco is a marvelous thing, oiled dough stretched thin as filo and folded around milky, tart crescenza cheese … The essence of the Factory Kitchen's focaccia di Recco is all in its ethereal crunch.
But the Factory Kitchen is a compelling new hybrid — an informal trattoria with rather formal northern Italian cooking, like those restaurants you sometimes find hidden in the warehouse districts of European cities that just happen to have a Michelin star. The dishes are composed; careful. This is not country food.Gold calls The Factory Kitchen's porchetta "one of the best versions in town" and he's also keen on Angelo Auriana's mandilli, "delicate handkerchief pasta" with almond pesto that "is also probably the best pasta at Factory Kitchen." [LAT]
[Photo by Elizabeth Daniels]
B-Rod at LA Weekly is more enchanted by the decor than the food at two star West Hollywood Russian restaurant Mari Vanna: "But mostly you should go to Mari Vanna for the utter insanity of the decor … I suppose you could go to Mari Vanna for the food, particularly if you have a nostalgic penchant for the home cooking of the Eastern bloc … If you were to find Russian food a tad bland, say, or if you have previously missed the comforting nuances of this particular cuisine, Mari Vanna isn't going to do much to change your mind."
The Elsewhere: Food GPS visits Isaan Station, Gastronomy tries Mary's Donuts in San Diego, kevinEats at Sushi Ota in San Diego, OverOverUnder considers Republique, and LAmag eats ice cream at Quenelle.