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Jonathan Gold, B-Rod Review The Hart and the Hunter

This is actually rather funny. Both Jonathan Gold and B-Rod simultaneously file reports this week on chefs Kris Tominaga and Brian Dunsmoor's The Hart and the Hunter. Gold is gaga for the restaurant's biscuits and dedicates a full third of the article to their description:

The first thing anybody is going to tell you about the Hart & the Hunter, the restaurant in the new Fairfax District Palihotel, is that you should get the biscuits, which come four to an order and are served on a board. And you should get the biscuits, which are really pretty extraordinary ... I've never tasted biscuits like these, which combine the best of what I've previously thought to be incompatible schools of the art.
If it weren't for the dominance of the biscuits, the best dish on the menu might be the salad of slivered Brussels sprouts tossed with peanuts, bits of cheddar and a bacony vinaigrette, which sounds like something you might have served at your first dinner party in your college apartment, but it comes together in an inexplicable way.
Gold likens the restaurant to "a drummerless band in vests," though concedes, "It's not as if the place exists completely outside the Los Angeles restaurant mainstream." There is, after all, a kale salad. [LAT]

[Photo: The Hart and the Hunter/ Elizabeth Daniels]

B-Rod is generally enamored by The Hart and the Hunter and is especially impressed with the restaurant's authentic, low-key Southern fare: "The Hart and the Hunter's aesthetic is close to Acheson's, although it's blunter, a little less refined. But where Acheson's restaurants (and 5&10, in particular) look to put Southern food in a fine-dining context, the Hart and the Hunter is playing in the casual, small-plates genre, and doing a damn good job of it ... I prefer to think the Hart and the Hunter has an energy that betrays its roots — a pop-up, a group of friends doing something fun, a couple of chefs and their band of hipster waiters playing house in the bottom of a boutique hotel. [LAW]

The Elsewhere: e*star LA drinks at The Hudson, Eat: LA tries La Serenata de Garibaldi, Eating LA hits RivaBella, Food GPS ventures to Hasu Yakitori, kevinEats at Allumette, and Quarry Girl dines at Fritzi Dog.

The Hart + The Hunter

7950 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046 323 424 3055 Visit Website

The Hart and the Hunter

7950 Melrose Ave Los Angeles, CA 90048

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