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Jonathan Gold Reviews littlefork in Hollywood

Jonathan Gold files words of praise for chef Jason Travi and restaurateur Dave Reiss' littlefork, a welcome and unique addition to Hollywood:

In most respects, Littlefork is a typical Reiss restaurant, which is to say a really good drinking place with high-concept eats — in this case, 1950s New England seafood joint crossed with grungy Montreal bistro, a boozy small-plates restaurant with Travi in the Roy Choi role and almost inexpensive unless you let the cocktails and the crunchy oyster sliders add up.
Frankly, not much criticism at all. With regard to cocktails, Gold writes that littlefork is "one of the better cocktail bars in this part of Hollywood at the moment." And he finds Travi's poutine to be not necessarily as "up to the gooey magnificence of Montreal's best" but "still a nice thing to power through on a chilly winter night." [LAT]

Photo: Art Gray

Although B-Rod directly states, "Bar Amá is still working itself out," she enjoys chef Josef Centeno's haute take on Tex-Mex: "... this is two restaurants in one. The first serves giant mounds of guacamole, oozy bowls of queso dip and gut-bomb enchiladas smothered in cheese. It's slutty Mexican-American food made with better ingredients than is typical of the genre but with the same emotional underpinnings: salt, fat and a touch of delicious sleaze. The other restaurant has slightly higher ambitions and serves next-generation riffs on Mexican ingredients and California produce." [LAW]

The Elsewhere: Time Out LA generally likes Bar Amá, Eat: LA dines at Chaya Downtown, Food GPS visits SQIRL, Gastronomy dines at Bestia, kevinEats at Bouchon, and Immaculate Infatuation considers Eveleigh.

Bar Ama

118 W 4th Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013 (213) 687-8002

littlefork

1600 Wilcox Ave Los Angeles, CA 90028

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