Jonathan Gold explains why Connie & Ted's, "a Rhode Island restaurant" and "one of the toughest reservations in town," is making its mark on Los Angeles with standout seafood:
Connie and Ted's is more serious about seafood than you will ever know, the surroundings suggest ... the kitchen is informed both by a great chef's attention to detail and his hard-won connections with the better New England seafood suppliers, but the restaurant is a clam shack nonetheless, engineered for great volume.
Cimarusti knows how to buy a lobster, how to cook a lobster and how to serve a lobster. Any disagreement with the style of the lobster roll tends to play out as a regional bias — Connie and Ted's is pretty much a Rhode Island restaurant — in the way that a lifetime Chengdu resident may travel to Chongqing, taste the kung pao chicken and make a mental note to pack a lunch the next time he makes the trip.One area of the menu to avoid, says Gold, is the grilled catch of the day. Fish is generally overcooked with an overpowering herb crust. Crab cakes are sometimes undercooked, too. [LAT]
[Photo: Elizabeth Daniels]
B-Rod gives two stars to Little Beast in Eagle Rock: "Little Beast's food sometimes is far too simple and sometimes it's a little overwrought. But there are places where the kitchen hits its stride and gets this brand of gourmet comfort food just right ... If dinner for two were likely to come in at less than $100 with drinks, Little Beast might make for a fantastic weekly treat. As it is, that number is more likely to creep up to around $120, making it more of an indulgence than a regular haunt." [LAW]
The Elsewhere: kevinEats at Maru, A Hamburger Today hits Soda & Swine, Darin Dines tries Charles Phan at M.B. Post, Food GPS frequents Superba Snack Bar, and Gastronomy also considers Charles Phan at M.B. Post.