Week in Reviews

Today Patric Kuh over at LAmag gives a full four stars to Ludo, Jon and Vinny's subtle French menu at Trois Mec: "Lefebvre's interpretation of French cuisine is radical in that it proceeds by indirection. He doesn't need to put Gallic elements front and center, because he is constantly weaving them into the mix ... At times he seems to be overseeing a colloquy between haute and farmhouse cooking." Despite partners, "the vision is Lefebvre's," and regardless of television appearances or books, Kuh concludes, when you leave Trois Mec, "...you leave a very real world behind." [LAmag]