Week in Reviews

Despite an uncomfortable design and unsavory "policies," B-Rod gives three stars to chef Evan Funke's seasonal Italian restaurant, Bucato: The kitchen is turning out "some of the most glorious pastas this city has ever seen, each bowl a small miracle ... In the vegetable section, Funke is presenting some of his best work." But no cell phones, same day reservations only, far bathrooms, and small portions don't bother B-Rod "as much as the inside space, which feels less like a welcoming restaurant and more like a brightly lit, high-design hallway between galleries at some big-city museum ... the layout is awkward, never allowing the interior to feel bustling or vibrant." [LAW]