This week, Jonathan Gold visits Alimento, the Silver Lake gem helmed by Zach Pollack (of Sotto). Gold praises the "modest but clever" menu, and lauds it as one of the better small Italian restaurants in the city:
Pollack spent a bit of time cooking in [Bologna], but his take on [tortellini in brodo], which he calls "al contrario," is a pasta from Opposite Day. His tortellini are filled with hot broth, like a Shanghai soup dumpling, and the diced mortadella and Parmesan cheese are in the sauce. You drag tortellini through the creamy emulsion, pop them into your mouth, and they burst into flavor. The impression is nowhere near the same as the original (the sauce is a little stodgy, and the pasta wrappers far from al dente), but the effect is still delightful; witty without being pretentious. [LAT]
The Elsewhere: The Offalo samples a variety of dishes at Night + Market Song, Food GPS noshes on pork cake at Bestia, Bill Esparza enjoys an aguachile tostada at Mariscos El Faro, and Midtown Lunch sheds light on The 5 Most Underrated Lunches in Los Angeles.