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Ludo Lefebvre (Petit Trois, Trois Mec) always been a stickler about promoting all things French, so it makes sense that he's been hanging out lately near his hometown in Burgundy to make an old-fashioned Chablis, writes Food & Wine. Ludo got connected to American winemaker Ray Walker through Anthony Bourdain, who was doing a No Reservations show in the region. Here's Walker on the wine he and Ludo are making together:
In Chablis, a lot of people do machine harvesting: The tractor comes and shakes the hell out of the vines until the grapes come off-good grapes, bad grapes, unripe, ripe, overripe, leaves, bugs, everything goes in. I didn't want to do that, and Ludo didn't, either. He wouldn't throw a whole side of beef in the oven without cutting it up. It's the exact same thing. So we handpick the grapes. [F&W]
Called Maison Ludo, the chardonnay-based premier cru wine comes out in about year.