Jonathan Gold and Besha Rodell Both Laud Petit Trois

This week, J. Gold hits Ludo Lefebvre's accessible French bistro Petit Trois, his second collaboration with Animal's Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook. The LA Times critic admires about the restaurant's "unpretentious cooking you may remember from your first trip to France," and uses escargot as a standard of measurement:

But there may be no better plate of escargot in town than at the new Petit Trois: six fat snails arranged on a custom metal plate, shells brimming with garlic, minced parsley and melted butter. A separate charger holds snail tongs, which look a little like something you might see at the dentist's office, and pronged forks that are little bigger than toothpicks. You clamp the shell with the tongs, prize out the meat of the snail and tip the remainder of the butter onto a torn scrap of baguette. [LAT]

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Besha Rodell also reviews Petit Trois, and gives the humble bistro four stars. While Rodell, like Gold, lauds the escargot as the best she has ever had, she describes the omlette as giving new meaning to the "perfectly-cooked-egg test" in order to illustrate the restaurant's both simple and ambitious Parisian bar cuisine:

With this omelette, the egg itself is presented as pure texture, a lightly frothy yellow solid, with absolutely no visual or tactile clue that it has ever touched a pan. The filling, of Boursin cheese and herbs, is practically the same light, creamy consistency as its egg wrapping. Outrageously rich yet with an ethereal quality of weightlessness, it is, quite simply, the best omelette I have ever had. [LAW]

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The Elsewhere: Daren Dines enjoys Q Sushi, Deep End Dining brunches at Crossroads, Eating LA will return to Haché LA for their juicy albeit under-seasoned burgers, Food GPS has rotisserie chicken at Superba Food & Bread, and Midtown Lunch goes to Sushi Tsujita.