In an effort to review Kazu Nori, the hand roll only venture of "Nozawa Land," Jonathan Gold begins by penning a solid education on the evolution and influence of Kazunori Nozawa, the man at the helm of the Sugarfish empire. Gold explains that Nozawa's style, replicated by legions of chefs trained in his aesthetic, has had such influence on the Los Angeles sushi scene that the pervasive sushi bar meal that begins with tuna nuta and ends with crab hand rolls has become a sort of new norm. The only paragraph dedicated to the downtown hand roll concept details the restaurant's dining experience:
Which brings us, I guess, to downtown's Kazu Nori, the newest citizen of Nozawa Land, which serves basically only rolls: toro rolls, blue crab rolls, yellowtail rolls, lobster rolls and salmon rolls: crisp seaweed, warm rice and the same seafood slurries you know from Sugarfish. The quality of the rolls may be even better than at Sugarfish - they are handed to you by the guy who makes them, and you are instructed to eat them immediately. [LAT]
The Elsewhere: Eating L.A. appreciates the modern Mediterranean fare at Bowery Bungalow, Food GPS explores Newport Beach, TimeOut gives four stars to Phillip Frankland Lee's The Gadarene Swine, Deep End Dining reunites with Firefly, and Street Gourmet LA announces the Street Food Essentials Tour via Club Tengo Hambre.