Photos by Elizabeth Daniels
Meet Marvin, a French bistro that's taken over the space formerly known as House Cafe. Marvin is a project from restaurateur Bruce Marder (Capo), Max Marder (Bruce's son), and — surprise! — Steven Arroyo (Escuela, Potato Chips). And if you're curious, the name is a portmanteau of the owners' last name and the French word for wine, vin.
It's not hard to see Arroyo's influence at Marvin. "People keep walking by and pointing at the ceiling and saying, 'oh hey, they copied that idea from the Escuela guy,' and I'm like, 'No! He did this himself!" says Max Marder, who will operate Marvin on a day-to-day basis. Large aluminum cans, stripped of their labels, line the ceiling and reflect the light from inset bulbs. There's a long bar with a dozen stools in front and 200 bottles of wine behind. Rustic wooden tables inhabit the interior while a gaggle of small cafe tables offer seating out front.
Chef Ricky Moreno — who has been with Bruce Marder's group since 1992 and is now a partner in the company — is behind the bistro-style menu. There are cheeses and charcuterie, plus vegetable-forward appetizers, steak tartare, duck liver, and cassoulet. Main dishes include lamb neck with mint, porchetta, and a 40-ounce cote du bouef. Finish the meal off with a pot de creme or chocolate souffle.
Marvin is currently only available to friends and family, but opens to the public next Wednesday, May 28, and then plans to serve dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. until midnight.
· Bruce Marder's House Cafe Done on Beverly, Marvin Next [~ELA~]