This week, Jonathan Gold goes south to Commerce to try the extraordinary lamb barbacoa at Aqui Es Texcoco, a northerly outpost of the Chula Vista original. It's quite the place to be during lunchtime, according to the Goldster:
When you get in your car and drive to the odd neighborhood of industrial parks in which you find Aqui Es Texcoco, you are not there for the Mexican craft beers, the promise of handmade pulque or the sturdy quesadillas, you are there for vast portions of lamb, chewy and gelatinous and touched with crunchy bits of char, piled on sheets of aluminum foil.
You eat the lamb with stacks of hot tortillas, puddles of beans, freshly made guacamole and foam cups of consommé fashioned from the drippings of the lamb, served so hot that your flimsy plastic spoon is likely to curl up in its depths.
More from Jonathan Gold on Aqui Es Texcoco:
Unfortunately for late-risers, barbacoa serves the same restorative morning-after function as menudo or birria, and occasionally the lamb is sold out by midday. Even the Lebanese-style lamb served with pita and dilled yogurt sauce instead of salsa. Even the roasted lamb's head. Even the lamb soft tacos. Even the oozing, crisply fried tacos stuffed with baked lamb's brain. It must have been a big day for hangovers, because there was no lamb. [LAT]
The Elsewhere: Midtown Lunch gets the 5 roll combo at KazuNori, LA Weekly marvels at Szechuan Impressions, Darin Dines checks in with Q in Downtown, GastronomyBlog likes the desserts at Bambu, and Noms Not Bombs goes to East Borough.
· All Week in Reviews Coverage [~ELA~]