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Jonathan Gold Talks Up 2014's Best Dishes, Rodell Wavers on Cadet, More!

Gold discusses his favorite dishes, Rodell drops two stars on Cadet and more from the year in review.

Cadet
Cadet
Elizabeth Daniels

The year-end reviews keep rolling in, with Jonathan Gold going long on his best dishes of 2014. Of course, the Goldster happily curates his full-blown restaurant best of list elsewhere with the Times, so an annual dish-specific wrap up makes a bit more sense here. After giving brusque mention of last year’s kale-ification and cheffed up BBQ concepts, the city’s primary gastronome heaps praise onto a few primary dishes, starting with the escargot at Petit Trois:

There may be no escargots in town better than the ones at the new Petit Trois: shells brimming with garlic, minced parsley and good melted butter.

Not to be outshone in the category of Out of the Way Street Food Discovery, Gold also lauds the chicken neck tacos from the Santa Rita Jalisco truck in East L.A., noting that "at $2.25 for an order of four golden fried necks, it's the cheapest happiness in town."

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Across town, Besha Rodell digs into Cadet, Kris Tominaga’s latest venture since departing Hart and the Hunter. The Santa Monica restaurant seems to take after more casual eateries found in the French countryside, though Rodell is hesitant to call the mimicry a success:

Entrees, mainly meats cooked over the wood-burning fire, are accompanied by what can only be described as banchan, the small bowls of condiments, pickles and salads usually served at Korean restaurants … It's a cute idea, and it almost works. The pancake thing is fantastic, evoking Ethiopian injera but not as spongy, and with a wonderful sour finish. But I found myself wishing the entrees themselves were more interesting, my pork more flavorful, my ribeye steak with Époisses cooked more lovingly.

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The Elsewhere: Round-ups this'a way! Food GPS debuts his globe-trotting list of his Top 10 Foods of 2014, GastronomyBlog outlines the year’s best savories, Bill Esparza tees off on the best T-named Mexican dishes for LA Mag and beer lover/Weekly Food Editor Sarah Bennett dishes on the best new L.A. area breweries.

Cadet

2518 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90403 (310) 828-3300

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