Jonathan Gold Goes Crazy for House-Special Crab at Newly Renamed Seafood Palace

This week, Jonathan Gold revisits Seafood Palace, the Chiu Chow seafood specialist in Monterey Park that was called Seafood Village until a name change earlier this year. The LA Times critic accompanied a group of Michelin-starred chefs from Hong Kong who, after making rounds in the SGV, ultimately fixated on the restaurant's Chiu Chow-style duck, oysters, and crab:

And they especially liked the house-special crab, dipped in a gauzy batter, deep-fried and showered with sliced chiles, chopped scallions and crunchy handfuls of golden fried garlic. (In Hong Kong, this dish is sometimes called "typhoon shelter'' crab for its ubiquity as street food sold under bridges and such.) They liked it so much that they arranged to return to Seafood Village the next evening, and they tried to go again the night after that. I can attest: It was remarkable crab. [LAT]

The Goldster concludes that nothing about the restaurant beyond the name has changed, with excellent sauteed scallops with asparagus, Chinese lettuce Chiu Chow style, fried snow fish with garlic sauce, and house-special steamed chicken.

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The Elsewhere: Gastronomy Blog eats lunch at Adana in Glendale, The Offalo doubles down with brunch and dinner at Cadet, and Darin Dines is lukewarm about Osteria Mozza.