This Christmas, Jonathan Gold shares his take on Pok Pok, Andy Ricker's highly anticipated full-scale Los Angeles restaurant that follows in the footsteps of the others in Portland, New York, and his Chinatown noodle stand. The LA Times critic tackles the subject of cultural appropriation that arises when "there is no shortage of restaurants featuring Thai chefs cooking Thai dishes for Thai expats (and non-Thais who wish to eat like Thais)."
The Goldster responds to the issue by explaining:
Still, Pok Pok's Singha on draft is frosty. The gin and tonic is beautifully punched up with makrut lime. The bar snacks — grilled dried cuttlefish with chiles, buffalo jerky, deep-fried patties of the pork salad called larb — are light, spicy and delicious. The music is pretty close to the best 10 minutes of a Henry Rollins podcast. There would be a lot of good reasons to drop by even if the food weren't good. [LAT]
Ultimately, J. Gold is rather pleased with the whole experience, and recommends the famous chicken wings, fried catfish, pork belly curry, and duck larb.